Monday, December 9, 2013

Cocktail Menus and Brand Cohesiveness.

I recently read an article discussing an issue I've long held very strong feelings about: bar and cocktail menus that don't match the brand/concept of the restaurant they are supposed to represent.  The post (Identity Crisis, from Possessed by Spirits) went on to describe an Italian restaurant he visited with a very locally sourced, rustic style Italian menu and a head bartender/director without any previous experience developing cocktail menus.  As a result, the cocktail menu was at complete odds with the style of the food--featuring classic and original cocktails without any Italian ties, and a bar program completely ignoring all of the amari and other ingredients that could make their program something unique and special to their town, and in perfect sync with their food:
The entire bar program from the spirits selection to the drinks menu could have just as easily been picked up and dropped into any other faceless craft cocktail bar in the country.   This was because there was absolutely no sense of cohesiveness in place to tie the bar to the restaurant.
It was almost as if the bar manager just looked through the latest cocktail book, picked out ten drinks at complete random and chose to put those on the list.  There was nothing that said rustic Italian, and Aperol was the most obscure Italian product on the entire back bar, which for some reason was primarily American Whiskey and gin.
Having spent about half of my career to-date in corporate-style restaurants, I am very lucky to have taken away a keen understanding of brand cohesiveness, and I find myself disoriented when a bar program and food program at a location don't seem to match up.  The cocktails might be fantastic, and the food might be amazing, but I just can't laud the location if the two don't...well...mesh.  I'm not saying that bourbon should be left off an Italian restaurant's cocktail menu, or amari can't find their way into a Mexican-style tequila bar, but as a beverage director/head bartender/manager you need to find the ways to be smart about your choices and placements--make sure that you have a reason for carrying or using something.

Instead of completely rehashing what someone else said brilliantly, I will use this space to throw out some ideas on how to make a bar program fit the food being served for various styles of cuisine.

Italian:  Italy is well-known for their amari (bitter liqueurs and cordials best known for their ability to stimulate an appetite or aid digestion after a meal).  Amari are generally very herbal and bitter, and they are currently enjoying a vast boost in popularity among bartenders.  Some examples are Campari, Aperol, Fernet Branca, Zucca, etc.  Amari can be heavily utilized in classic and original cocktails, and can lend an Italian twist to non-Italian classics to tie them into the concept.  If you plan on having a nice collection of amari for your guests, be certain to educate your staff on their flavors and uses, and be certain to find ways for your guests to know you have them available and how to drink them--maybe add a page to your cocktail or wine list.  Similarly, there are some lovely grappa and limoncello options available for after-dinner sipping, as well.  Both of those, in addition to your amaro collection, would make a fantastic After Dinner section.

Another potential idea for Italian (and any country known for their wines) cuisine would be a wine-based cocktail--or three.  Sherry, vermouth, and other wines can make a fantastic addition to cocktails, or even a wonderful base ingredient.  Wine cocktails can be especially nice because many of them are much lower-proof than spirits-based cocktails, and they offer your clientele an alternative when they are not interested in an evening of heavier drinking.

Japanese:  From a cocktail development standpoint, Alcademics said it best in a post earlier this year: Zen and the Art of Japanese Cocktail Development.  Use the very unique flavors of the area, and look to their philosophies of complexity and depth through simplicity and technique...and, if your state allows, showcase some of the phenomenal whiskeys coming out of the area.  Show beauty through the stories of your cocktails and the way you make them, and the lovely, lovely garnishing.  Also, did I mention that the Japanese love their whiskey?  If you can't get your hands on Japanese whiskey to showcase, ones from other countries would not be out of place--just use and feature them in the same spirit that you might use the Japanese ones.  If you can get your hands on the Japanese variety, some classic American cocktails would not be out of place with such a twist (Japanese whiskey variations on the Manhattan and Rob Roy, just for a couple of examples).  Regarding flavors, restaurants.com also posted a great piece on Asian-inspired cocktails and the flavors useful in them: The Growth of Asian-Inspired Cocktails.  Continuing with the low-alcohol thought previously mentioned, sake can make a really unique and amazing base for low-proof cocktails.

Mexican:  Obviously, mezcal is the spirit of Mexico, and tequila is the variation of mezcal that Americans are most familiar with.  There are a number of simple and popular classic tequila cocktails that offer much opportunity to play with and twist.  Plays on margaritas are plentiful, but what about twists on the Matador, or the Tequila Sunrise, or the Paloma?  The climate of Mexico offers many fantastic fruits and flavors to play with (mango, pineapple, cilantro, chiles and spices of a dizzying array), the different aging levels of tequila offer many different options for flavor pairings, and the smokiness of mezcal produced from roasted agave opens up an even larger realm of possibility--I've had a fantastic mezcal Mule, and many places have played with the idea of an Añejo Old-Fashioned.  Be certain to develop your own sangrita recipe, and don't forget the possibilities of agua frescas and horchatas as mixers, or as non-alcoholic options--and atoles in the winter (or brunch).  If you're lucky enough to have access to great pulque, there's another world to open, too!  For sweetening in general, agave nectar is fantastic, and you can use it to make amazing flavored syrups, and in place of standard simple syrup for...well...pretty much everything.  If you choose to have an extensive tequila selection, be certain your staff is well-educated in the differences, and don't forget to play up the bourbon/cognac-style properties of Añejo and Extra Añejo tequilas and their perfect place as an after-dinner sipping liquor.

American "Locavore": This is one that can go many many ways.  First and foremost, bourbon and other American whiskey is likely to be a solid fit, as will products from local distilleries.  Be discriminating, however--just because it's local doesn't mean it's good.  If it's not good, there's no reason to carry it.  Do you know that saying "You're only as strong as your weakest link"?  Well, your bar is only as strong as the weakest product in your wells or on your backbar.  If your food program is set on fresh and quality ingredients do you really want $5-$6 plastic bottles of well liquors taking up what's likely valuable real estate behind your bar? Do you want a sour mix or grenadine with a base of high fructose corn syrup that's loaded up with unpronounceable preservatives and fake colorings?  Probably not.

If the food menu is very focused on being locally sourced and seasonal, follow suit with your cocktails!  Fresh muddled fruits and syrups made from local produce will fit in famously.  For a little more rustic feel, shrubs and switchels (what's a switchel?) fit the bill famously, and shrubs and jams can help you keep some of those summer flavors all year 'round.


This is really just a taste of the possibilities, and only a few popular cuisine styles.  The key I hope anybody reading takes away from this is to research, research, research!  Know the flavors, know the philosophies, know the styles, know your options, know your target clientele, and make sure your bar is an asset and a complement to your location and your food menu. For bar managers: Talk with your ownership. Know what the concept and the feel should be, and work towards that accordingly. Be willing to be the brand you work for, and give it your all.  For restaurant/bar owners: Be willing to be picky. Don't settle for a manager who is more interested in their own brand than they are yours.  A beverage director/manager who is willing to embody your establishment's brand will do more for both of your reputations and brands than the former type of person will. Unwilling/unable to shell out for a full-time mixologist for menu development and upkeep? Hire a professional consultant who understands how it all works, and how to appropriately train and execute for the long-term success of your list.

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